Tuberose, Oud, and Amber: A Short History of “Dangerous” Notes in Perfumery

Not all perfume notes are created equal. Some flowers are praised as pure, while others have long been considered dangerous. Throughout history, certain ingredients have carried reputations for seduction, excess, or even moral corruption. Today, those same notes are celebrated for their intensity and allure.

This is the story of three of perfumery’s most “dangerous” ingredients: tuberose, oud, and amber.

Tuberose: The Fatal Flower

In seventeenth-century Europe, young women were warned not to breathe too deeply around blooming tuberose at night. The flower’s heady sweetness was said to provoke lustful thoughts.

Centuries later, tuberose remains one of perfumery’s most polarising notes. Creamy, narcotic, and rich, it feels unapologetically sensual.

Try: Frédéric Malle Carnal Flower with lush tuberose and green bite.

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Try: Gucci Bloom with a modern bouquet that softens the intensity of tuberose.

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Oud: The Resin of Obsession

Oud, also known as agarwood, has been prized in the Middle East for centuries. Distilled from infected aquilaria trees, it produces an aroma that is smoky, resinous, and addictive. It was burned in temples and palaces and was associated with both luxury and spirituality.

When oud began to appear in Western perfumery in the early 2000s, it was considered shocking because it smelled animalic and intense. Today, it is one of the most sought-after notes and is often used to signal wealth and status.

Try: Tom Ford Oud Wood with smooth, accessible oud wrapped in spices.

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Try: Acqua di Parma Oud Eau de Parfum with bright Italian citrus blended with dark resin.

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Amber: The Golden Glow

Amber is not a single material but a perfumer’s fantasy accord. Labdanum, vanilla, benzoin, and resins are blended to create warmth and richness. In nineteenth-century Europe, amber perfumes were associated with decadence and sensuality. They clung to clothing and filled drawing rooms with a golden haze.

Modern amber fragrances still carry that aura of indulgence. They are radiant, enveloping, and often considered addictive.

Try: Maison Francis Kurkdjian Grand Soir with amber, vanilla, and tonka.

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Try: Serge Lutens Ambre Sultan with resinous warmth and dramatic intensity.

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Why These Notes Still Matter

Perfume ingredients acquire reputations because they provoke strong reactions. Tuberose, oud, and amber were once considered too dangerous or too indulgent, yet today they are some of the most desired materials in fragrance. They remind us that perfume has always walked the line between beauty and excess.

Whiff's Note: The so-called “dangerous” notes are not truly dangerous. They are the ones that make us feel most alive.